During the 20th century much was changing in Europe. There were two major world wars and in a large part cultural views were transforming. The family’s values were changing and a sense of freedom was being instilled more in women. Because of their new found freedom, women started to revamp their lifestyles. One thing in particular I’d like to focus on is how much women’s fashions were redefined during the earlier part of the 20th century.
Because of the First World War (1914-1918), many fashions that had once been rather static began changing at an accelerated pace. The largest and most noticeable change was the hemline. According to costumes.org hems, which had risen from floor length to ankle length prior to the war, rose to midcalf by 1916 and have stayed higher ever since. Before the war, where dressing like a man had been declared ugly and immoral, now it was more acceptable for women to wear trousers and short hair. This transition towards a masculine appearance had much to do with the jobs women were taking during the war. Many men were gone to fight, and when women took over their jobs it was much more practical, and in fact safer, to habituate a masculine style. Eventually during the twenties short hair became very popular and the flapper movement upped the drama of women’s clothing. Hemlines rose to the knee and more exciting still, flesh colored stockings were being used and paired with sexy heels, (not the button up boots of years past).
As fashion is just a reflection of the values of society, trends continued to take a more casual approach as the twenties progressed. Because the values of the older generation had gotten them into war, the younger generation tended to shy away from anything that reminded them of that, most especially in clothing styles. Sexuality in all it’s forms were beginning to be embraced by women and this movement was echoed in their clothing. Thinner figures started to become popular among women and diets were put in place so they could mold themselves into that “stylish”, slimmer, flatter teenage shape. Waistlines dropped to hip length and the brassiere started to replace corsets completely.
Hollywood had a large effect not only on the fashion of America, but Europe as well. Lipstick and perms became quite popular, making salons a fashionable place for ladies to gather and socialize.
The Second World War broke out in Europe in 1939, the same year as Nylon was introduced. Even though there were other exciting new innovations during this period, because of the war, rations caused fashion to became a rather “make do and mend” style. Women’s styles made the greatest changes during this period. Men’s old suits were reused and sewn into women’s suits, “complete with the tailored details and shoulder padding previously found in the garments” (costumes.org). Rationing in Europe also encouraged less fabric use, and thus the invention of every woman’s must, “The Little Black Dress”. Trying to stay fashionable during the war was tough, but style magazines promoted this style as quite practical. Just take that simple, short black dress and change it up from day to night with different accessories.
All in all, the changes made to women’s fashion in the early part of the 20th century were considerable and quite influential during the rest of the century. I find that viewing fashion as a historical marker is quite useful and interesting if one knows what to look for.
You might be interested in a book by Mary Louise Roberts called Civilization without Sexes. It's about women's fashion and the political implications and how they were interpreted in the interwar years. She also has an interesting article in the American Historical Review called "Samson and Delilah Revisited" about how women's haircuts and clothing affected politics and society in the same period.
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